What surfing says about the importance of serendipity in life
What surfers call the elated state of ‘stoke’ is really a celebration of life and the meaningful serendipities it brings
by Aaron James
Aaron James is professor of philosophy at the University of California, Irvine. His books include Assholes (Doubleday, 2012), Surfing with Sartre (Doubleday, 2017) and the coauthored Money from Nothing: Why We Should Learn to Stop Worrying About Debt and Love the Federal Reserve (Melville House Press, 2020).
Written by Aaron James