The best chef in the world

20 MINUTES

Founding the ‘world’s best’ restaurant made Sally happy. So did selling it

Although her name might not be familiar, if you’ve ever dined ‘farm-to-table’ you’ve likely tasted the influence of the visionary chef Sally Schmitt (1932-2022). She and her husband Don Schmitt founded the renowned restaurant the French Laundry, putting the Napa Valley outpost on the map as a culinary destination, and transforming an unassuming stone cottage in Yountville, California into one of the most exciting restaurants in the world. But, as The Best Chef in the World attests, this was not a title she ever aspired to hold. Filmed two years before her death, the short documentary celebrates her legacy and captures her sage perspectives on food, family and ambition – including her decision to sell the French Laundry at the peak of its success.

The film’s opening minutes provide a culinary tour of Schmitt’s kitchen, and beyond, to explore where her love of food began. In quick close-ups, butter melts on the hob, fresh peppercorns grind in a pestle and mortar, and bright, home-grown leaves tear, ready to be plated. Viewers travel via archive footage and photography to 1930s California, the time and place of Sally’s birth. It was an era marked by the dawn of supermarkets and a move away from a soil-to-table connection to food. However, growing up in a ‘food-centric family’ that lived off the land, Sally’s enthusiasm for fresh, seasonal ingredients started early, and sprung from necessity. From braised meats to citrus fruits, the dishes served up throughout her childhood inspired the menus that would later dazzle diners at the French Laundry.

Following the restaurant’s opening in 1978, Schmitt’s talent for elegantly simple and deeply flavourful recipes soon established her as a pioneer of ‘Californian cuisine’ – a culinary movement built on local, seasonal ingredients. Planting the seeds of the restaurant’s success, Schmitt knew that hearty, home-grown food tastes better in good company. More than a place to enjoy simple food at its best, the restaurant was a meeting hub, a passion project and an act of love. But after years of mounting accomplishments, in 1994 Schmitt made the difficult decision to sell the French Laundry to a young and ambitious chef named Thomas Keller, knowing that she valued her tight-knit family lifestyle more than whatever money, accolades or fame may have been on the horizon. In the years since, the restaurant has received countless awards, including first place in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list in 2003 and 2004, and Keller’s current total of seven Michelin stars reserves his spot among the most celebrated chefs in the world.

Known for championing the stories of people who’ve lived just below fame’s radar, it’s no wonder that the Academy Award-winning Canadian filmmaker Ben Proudfoot was drawn to Schmitt. Through his ‘almost famous’ framework – and with no shortage of mouthwatering culinary close-ups – Proudfoot returns, again and again, to questions about what makes for a successful life. When do we have enough? And what is the cost of ambition? For Sally Schmitt, the answers seem to evoke her recipes – made close to home, kept simple but refined, crafted with passion and dedication – and with comfort and, above all, balance in mind.

Written by Olivia Hains

Director: Ben Proudfoot

Website: Breakwater Studios

Explore more

Photo of a person walking on an empty city street at sunrise, casting a long shadow amidst tall buildings.

Jaywalking man

Even before I got hit, I’d come to find unexpected bliss in waiting at street corners

by Lawrence Everett Forbes

Hands holding freshly picked blackberries, with a background of green leaves and a black and white spotted dress.

Sweetness and light

After years of subsisting on protein bars and iceberg lettuce, berry-picking brought me home to my body

by Jamie Cattanach

Marble sculpture of a dynamic struggle between two naked figures on a dark background, showcasing intricate details and movement.
GENDER

Plato’s challenge to the meaning of manliness still resonates

Even in ancient Greece, Plato questioned whether gender norms around masculinity were good for men’s individual freedom

by Yancy Hughes Dominick

Photo of a cupcake with white icing and orange sprinkles in a yellow wrapper against a bright yellow background.

How to enjoy food without feeling guilty about it

Through mindful eating and a shift in mindset, you can alleviate unwarranted negative feelings and embrace the joy of food

by Vivienne Lewis

Three women chatting and laughing on stone steps at night with people relaxing in the background.
GENDER

Is being single a happier experience for women or men?

More people than ever are going solo. We identified a gender difference that hints at the ingredients needed to enjoy it

by Elaine Hoan & Geoff MacDonald

Photo of a patient in surgery with head stabilised by a frame; medical staff holding instruments in the background.

What removing large chunks of brain taught me about selfhood

I’ve cut brains in half, excised tumours – even removed entire lobes. The illusion of the self and free will survives it all

by Theodore H Schwartz

A naked young woman walking on a rippled sandy beach towards the sea, clear blue water and distant islands in view.
Psyche Exclusive

For Lucy, surviving on a remote island was hard, but returning was harder

Directed by Jesper Wachtmeister

Photo of a red taxi with passengers in an urban setting, a sign saying “Life is War” visible in the background.

Relationships are important, but so is feeling free to end them

Comparing ‘relational mobility’ and people’s average happiness across different cultures reveals some intriguing patterns

by Thomas Talhelm & Liuqing Wei